Our raison d’etre en Jaisalmer was the camel safari, rated as one of the must do’s in the Rajasthan desert. and in the words of the great Donaghy: we “do do.”
We set out in the morning in a jeep loaded with south africans, a brit and an ausie, apparently with a pre-safari itinerary.
We visited the Bada Bagh cenotaugh, home of the deceased Maharawal Jait Singh who reigned from 1470-1506. Go figure. It sure was fun climbing around.
Our next curious stop was in a small village on the way to our middle of nowhere safari. There were a few huts and a some children who must have, at some time, auditioned for a worldvision commercial. They, however, were as content as could be with their rolling tire and happily requested we part with any chocolate or school pens on our being.
We continued our journey on no apparent road, dust flying around the bouncing jeep. Mr. Driver looked around inquisitively and pulled out his cell phone (hey Canada, India has cheap cell phone rates in the middle of the frekking desert), obviously lost. In a flury of hindi, the speaker on the other side must have said “Duh, we’re by the other sand dune, the one with the sand.” We made a U-Turn and like a genie out of a bottle, there they were – guides, camels et al.
Eagerly, we piled out of the jeep asking the same questions each new group of tourists inevitably does. What’s this camel's name? How often do they drink water? We were each assigned a camel, loaded our bags and tally ho.
Our fearless leader, a youthful 23 years old, has been leading camel safaris for a cool 10 years. He was partnered with an older looking gent who didn’t speak much english. Along with them, a boy of 10 years, who was in training. He was along to wash dishes and hand out chai. When you live in the desert, there aren’t many other options. The humble safari camel driver makes 2000 indian rupees per month; equivalent of $45. How they make do is a wonder of the modern age. The tips go a long way.
Camels are an awkward creature. The grace with which they move left for a sore backside, but for what they lack in fluidity, they make up with character. As we trudged along, a camel with his eyes set on a snack would wander off and nibble at the nearest bush.
Our trusty guide and his counter parts, walked the entire duration of the safari, guiding the camels along the invisible path. We visited the local watering hole (quite literally a hole with water) and lunched in the shade of a large resilient tree.
We continued past the mighty sand dunes and made our way to our site for the evening. Secluded between dunes and in the shelter of some brush, fires were started and dinner served. The sun set slowly over the western ridge, silhouetting the wandering camels. The sand was soft beneath our feet and the temperature dropped as the winds hastened. The blankets were passed around as we exchanged stories of home under the inexplicably starry night sky. One by one, we drifted off to sleep.
The sun began to rise, a little too early, with the smell of chai and breakfast lingering in the air. Emily woke up trying to steal back her blankets from a late night visitor who had curled up against her leg (she was not pleased, being afraid of wild animals).
Breakfast was had, the gear was packed and camels saddled; we continued our onward journey.
- daniel
We set out in the morning in a jeep loaded with south africans, a brit and an ausie, apparently with a pre-safari itinerary.
We continued our journey on no apparent road, dust flying around the bouncing jeep. Mr. Driver looked around inquisitively and pulled out his cell phone (hey Canada, India has cheap cell phone rates in the middle of the frekking desert), obviously lost. In a flury of hindi, the speaker on the other side must have said “Duh, we’re by the other sand dune, the one with the sand.” We made a U-Turn and like a genie out of a bottle, there they were – guides, camels et al.
Our fearless leader, a youthful 23 years old, has been leading camel safaris for a cool 10 years. He was partnered with an older looking gent who didn’t speak much english. Along with them, a boy of 10 years, who was in training. He was along to wash dishes and hand out chai. When you live in the desert, there aren’t many other options. The humble safari camel driver makes 2000 indian rupees per month; equivalent of $45. How they make do is a wonder of the modern age. The tips go a long way.
Camels are an awkward creature. The grace with which they move left for a sore backside, but for what they lack in fluidity, they make up with character. As we trudged along, a camel with his eyes set on a snack would wander off and nibble at the nearest bush.
- daniel
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