About a year ago, while brainstorming countries and places to visit for our Asia trip, I came across something—I don’t remember what exactly—with information about the Mount Everest base camp trek. “That looks cool. I like hiking.” I thought and pitched the idea of doing the trek to Daniel. Not one to back out on an adventure, Daniel agreed without hesitation. That was that. Nepal was put on the itinerary; we were going to trek the Himalayas to see Everest.
We did our research, bought a book, decided to opt out of doing an organized group trek and to do it ourselves (to save money, lots of money), hired a guide, bought the appropriate gear, bought the plane ticket from Delhi to Katmandu, packed our bags with our gear in it, flew into Nepal.
And upon arriving in Nepal I started having minor panic attacks…
WHAT IN THE WORLD POSSESSED ME TO DO THE EBC TREK?! What did I mean by “I like hiking”?! I’ve only gone hiking twice in my entire life! I’m not at all outdoorsy or athletic or even in that great of a shape, so why did I decide to do five to seven hour hikes a day, everyday for two weeks?! Why did I ever think I could do so much physical activity?! Oh, and that’s not even considering the altitude!! Trekking is already enough exertion, but in such altitudes? Such thin air? Reading about altitude sickness in my book and how people have died, just made me feel worse. I might die. Oh and there’s that flight into Lukla. I had read somewhere that it’s not uncommon for crashes, and even fatalities. Wikipedia even has a comprehensive list of accidents. I might die. (Okay, perhaps I was being a bit too dramatic and letting my imagination run a little too wild).
Our trek began with a flight from Katmandu to the village of Lukla. Flights between Katmandu and Lukla are weather dependent; though the flying distance between the two towns are short (only 45 minutes), high winds or any cloud cover can delay flights or close the airport completely. The skies were clear the morning of our scheduled flight and we boarded the small twin-engine plane on time.
The plane ride to Lukla was uneventful. I was still feeling extremely anxious about the flight, but averaging only four hours of sleep in the last couple of days, I was exhausted and fell asleep while praying for flight safety. And then we were in Lukla. The arrival at the airport was a bit… surprising. I awoke from my nap right before arrival at the Hillary-Tenzing in Lukla and expected my ears to pop and to feel the jerky motion of a place on descent. But there was none of that… because there was no descent; the plane just landed.

The Hillary-Tenzing airport has a single runway less than 500 m long. One end of the runway steeply drops about 2,000 feet to the valley below; on the other end, there is a concrete wall of the airport. This meant, when arriving at Lukla, planes have less than half a kilometer to decelerate to a full stop, or risk crashing into the wall. Alternatively, when leaving the airport, plane need to accelerate to needed take-off speeds before the drop, or risk crashing into the side of a mountain. I find out later that day that the airport is in The History’s Channels list most extreme airports. “Extreme” is just a sugar-coated way of saying “dangerous. Beware!”. The airports on the list are included because of its extreme location, difficult approach, and short runways. The Hillary-Tenzing airport is number one on the list… so thank God we landed without incident.

Our guide met us at the airport; his name was Sherpa Lakpa, but we called him Mr. Lakpa. He was a slight man— tiny even!—of 45 years old. He was from a village close to Lukla. He had three adult sons and had been a guide for over 15 years. He suggested we explore Lukla a little before beginning our journey up.
Lukla with an elevation of 2,860 m is the popular starting point for the EBC trek. It is a moderately sized village with many tourist lodges and restaurants serving western food and souvenir shops; there was even a Starbucks—the only one in all of Nepal! Despite all the establishments that cater for tourists, Lukla is definitely not Kansas anymore.



All the buildings are all rectangular in shape, no more than two stories tall, made from the same grey stone and roofed with the same green or blue shingles. The buildings are strung together by a narrow walking path, partly paved by concrete, partly paved by stone. Gone are the cars and tuk tuks of Katmandu; instead, scrawny chickens, little children, and dzos (yak-cow hybrids) roam the streets freely. We see women washing their long beautiful raven black hair outside their homes in buckets of water; men, hunched over like Quasimodo, walking the path with multiple backpacking backpacks on their backs; children, wearing these huge poufy down jackets, playing in the dirt (or sometimes, the side of a cliff); dzos ever so nonchalantly pooping right in the middle of the path. And surrounding Lukla, mountains—mountains varying in size and colour, in every direction for as far as we could see.
This place was completely different from anything I had ever experienced—and it wasn’t even 10am.
Our surroundings became even more foreign as we left Lukla: the path on which we walked on became a dirt path; the terrain went up and down as if it couldn’t make up its mind on which elevation it wanted to stay at; the density of buildings became more and more sparse until there were was just Daniel, me, Mr. Lakpa and mother nature.
My fears and anxieties remained with me throughout the day, but they did fade just a smidgen with each step I took, with each glace at my beautiful surroundings. By the time I reached village of Phakding, I knew it was okay. I was going to see Everest; I was going to make it all the way to Kala Pathar (elevation of 5,550m); I was going to have an experience of a lifetime.
It took us four hours to reach Phakding (elevation of 2,640m). We were exhausted by the time we reached our lodge. Having skipped lunch, we ate a very big meal. I remember it to be so delicious. We were asleep before the sun set.
- Emily