julian drove us artists (minus rolf plus daniel) to siena early morning and we parked just outside the city walls; like all other tuscan towns we visited, siena is walled city, perched high on a hill. after a short walk through some narrow streets, we arrived at the piazza del campo (where the aforementioned il palio is held) and we were faced with a magnificent view of the shell-shaped piazza and the torre del mangia. The entire square is surrounded by lovely buildings and all streets in siena seemed to lead into the piazza. it was perhaps one of the liveliest and prettiest squares we visited during our time in italy.
shortly after taken a million pictures of the square...
...we took a tour of the siena’s cathedral, the duomo, an ostentatious looming structure constructed of white and black (colours of siena) marble in alternating stripes (reminding me of sephora). I loved the stripes, seemed such an avant garde modernistic touch to an otherwise pristine example of romanesque architecture.


we walked through the cathedral, visiting the piccolomini library and baptistry as well as the narthex beneath the duomo. traditionally, the narthex was an area for visitors to spiritually prepare themselves before entering the more holy cathedral. the narthex was filled with earth for the last hundreds of years and it discovered only a decade ago. up on excavation, the narthex was found to contain 13th century frescoes depicting old testament stories and scenes from the life of christ. the frescoes, having been covered by earth, are well-preserved, its colours without the fade of weathering, light and humidity and considered to be in its original shades; it is rare to find frescoes close to its original form and such a treat to see painting in such intense and saturated colours.


for lunch we stopped by a little restaurant owned by the capatino (“mayor”) of civetta (the district of siena that the last victory documentary had featured). we tried to catch glimpses of the civettean residents we had seen in the film and that one of the stable boys was also working in the restaurant. before lunch, we’d run into a tour guide that was in the documentary; daniel approached her and confirmed it.
we were left to our own devices in the afternoon. daniel and I wandered the city, in search for italian leather shoes and an owl (symbol of the chivetta district) souvenir. siena had an extensive and lovely selection of shoe and handbag stores. and lo and behold, I came across two pairs of shoes: one was a pair of suede oxfords; the other was a classic pump… I wished I had a million dollars, choosing between the two pairs was the hardest thing I’ve had to do.
I decided I needed some gelato to help make a wise decision. we stopped by a gelataria at the piazza del campo. we seated ourselves on its cobblestoned center and enjoyed our last serving of gelato- this time, a delicious rich dark chocolate- and people watching.
the sky started to cloud over and daniel and I made our way back to the shops to get my shoes. the gelato had not made me any more decisive and I forced daniel to make the decision; he chose the black pumps. (the shoes are awesome, but I should have purchased the oxfords as well!)
by the time I left the shoe store, it was pouring outside. we found fellow artists hiding out in a shoe store nearby. the other women artists were also on a shoe hunt, and the store were offering italian brand boots (i.e. miss sixty etc.) for only 40 or 60 euros! I gave daniel my most charming look and he relented to purchasing yet another pair for me, but unfortunately (or fortunately for his wallet) I could not find a single shoe, of the hundreds, that fit my feet! leanne, the australian artist, escaped with three pairs (oh the injustice)!
when the rain cleared, four women all with at least a pair of shoes in tow and my daniel with a little owl souvenir in his pack, caught a train back to chuisi. siena was my favourite day in italy. there was just something about the city that I loved- maybe it was the documentary which gave me a better understanding, and subsequently connection, of the people. that and all the great stores.
in the evening, we went to the sleepy umbrian town, castiglione del lago known only for being the “town near the largest lake (lago trasimeno) in the italian peninsula”. we stopped by julian’s cheese and charcuterie guy to load up on souvenirs. I coveted everything in that store: the truffles, the spreads, the biscotti, the olive oil!- but only took home some food souvenirs for my mum and an olive wood cheese board for myself. it took so much self control not to purchase the olive wood rolling pin, olive wood salt and pepper shaker, olive wood bowl, olive wood cheese knife etc.


our last supper in italy was one of the best meals we had in italy- and since mandy’s cooking was utterly delicious, that’s saying a lot. there was prosciutto- costing 30 euros a pound we were told- and five different bruschettes to choose from. the entrée was an asparagus and pancetta lasagna, rich and creamy goodness. I topped off the meal with a light english trifle; and daniel with the best pana cotta ever. our stomaches had never been happier. dinner, of course, spanned over a few hours. we discussed art and culture and shared stories from our respective home, like all previous nights. one of the american women was unsure of who the david statue she sat at the galleria gorghese was, confusing biblical david with achilles (of greek mythology), much to the amusement of daniel and me.
and eventually it was time to go, not just the restaurant, but the siliano and tuscany and italy..
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an epilogue
it’s been over a month since we’ve been back from italy; the tastes, sounds and sights we experienced, a faded memory. life has long settled into its regular rhythm. but I am left inspired by all the beauty experienced in that two weeks. life is seemingly better and sweeter than before the trip...